Vermeil du cres 2012

Brought back from the Vignerons de Serignan Cave Cooperative.

I bought two bottles at €8 each from a Dutch expat employe of the Cooperative. The disappointment of the first bottle led me to think that both had been ruined by being left to the mercy of the Languedoc heat whilst entombed in our roof box. This second bottle makes me think otherwise. Despite the cork pushing out the top of the foil, this is really quite agreeable. There is spice and cream initially which gives way to vibrant (but not brash) fruit. Not a million miles away from a Faugères style. One imagines the grape varieties will be similar (carignan, grenache?) but surely the terroir must be very different? This was so close to the sea with not a whiff of schist in sight.

St Pourcain, Bell Tower Pinot Noir-Gamay 2012

The same blend as the wine we bought from that area whilst passing through in 2010.

At the time I thought it was an idiosyncratic blend specific to that producer. It seems that it's actually a feature of the appellation.

Very light colour and vibrant fruit. I'm guessing that's the Pinot.

A light refreshing wine which I would return to if the acidity was a fraction lower. Would be great for summer lunch outside.

Chateau de la Liquiere, Faugères 2011

Very savoury, almost meaty nose on decanting. On the palette, there is that familiar burst of lush fruit. Strange mixture of being thirst quenching yet simultaneously earthy. Two left. It's a pity I won't be going anywhere near Faugeres anytime soon.  

Domaine des Rabichattes, Pouilly-Fumé 2012

£12 from Majestic but only if you buy 2, £14 otherwise. At that price, it has to be judged against wines like the Domaine de la Croix Senaillet St Veran (I was about to add Yapp bros Brézème Blanc to that but see it is now £17.50 p/b!). By coincidence I opened a Touraine (Sauvignon de Touraine 2012 Domaine du Pré Baron) from Majestic a few days ago which was £9. You would struggle to say that they were both pure sauvignon blanc. For the extra £4 the Pouilly Fume has masses more going on in terms of flintiness, minerality but it's also much more balanced. No 'in your face' gooseberry here just freshness. Acidity is pleasingly restrained. In terms of fruit, I'd say a mellow version of granny smith apple is the closest thing I can think of.

If I compare this to the Chablis Premier Cru (£16, WS) then there is no contest. This is infinitely better value. The Chablis has no discernable fruit of any kind. Emperor's new clothes! I shan't be buying Chablis again any time soon. The only one I've ever had that was remarkable was a grand cru that Geir bought but i think it was at least £20.

Domaine du Florence, Fleurie 2009

Acquired a case of this in 2010 and wasn't overly impressed with it. Seemed to be rough edged and lacking any cru Beaujolais qualities like violets, black cherry etc.

With 3 bottles left I read a Jancis Robinson piece in the FT about 2009 Beaujolais being unusually tannic. I duly stashed the rest away.

Does it taste any different in 2013? It may well be the emperor's new clothes but it does seem to have softened. The fruit is still very faint. Slight creaminess to the finish. Acidity is there, too much really.

Cuvee Valentin Duc

Bought at the Caveau de Schist just outside Laurens. In truth, it is unremarkable. It has that cooked pear edge I associate with many a Languedoc white (Picopoul de Pinet being a notable exception): not a flavour I enjoy.

I'm any case, I Had all but forgotten I'd brought this back with me until I saw it's red counterpart on the list at La Grillade for 'only' £22. It was fantastic: just the right mixture of earthy fruit to go with the Chateaubriand.

I see today's mailing from the Wine Society has a big feature on The Languedoc but there's no mention of Faugères...

Domaine de l' Arjolle

A claret-like blend (Cabernet Saugivnon-Merlot) from near Pezenas (Cotes de Thongue - there are seemegly no restrictions on grapes variety here?). This certainly had more of a Bordeaux/Stellenbosch feel to it than a classic Languedoc. At £7.50 (WS) it invites comparison with Chateau Canada. It has a decent amount of cedar-mess and leathery-ness and some accessible fruit up front. It seems good value to me. Could this, together with areas like Stellenbosch, be arguments against the influence terroir? Perhaps you can only scale the heights of the claret experience in Bordeaux but others certainly seem to be going well in the foothills.....

Domaine du Cros, Marcillac 2012

Excellent impersonation of a good quality beaujolais village. Raspberry up front with a pleasingly dry peppy finish. Light yet interesting. Yet another appalation ('Appalation Marcillac Protogee') I had never heard of and one which perhaps only the Wine Society (£8) or perhaps Yapp bros would have the courage to stock.

Frederic Mabileau Les Rouilleres St Nicolas de Bourgeuil 2009

Superb example of Loire cabernet franc can be both fresh and weighty at the same time. Lovely pencil lead, cedary finish to it. I've had this in storage for about 18 months and now see that I paid about £13 for it at Waitrose. I'd say it represents reasonable value. What other supermarket would have the confidence and imagination to stock something like this?

Jordan, 2010 Stellenbosch

Parkin or ginger on the nose? An earthy, satisfying offering. Held up very well after being opened 4 days ago. Dry, leathery fruit. £8 (majestic) represents good value and further proof that this region is performing for better than bordeaux using the same varietal blends at much cheaper prices.

Chateau des Jaques, Moulin-A-Vent 2010

I keep reading about how higher-end cru beaujolais producers are beginning to produce gamay in a 'burgundian' style. I suspect this is one of them. Certainly, the price tag (£12.50, Majestic) is edging into Burgundy country. The wine is a failure for me. It is heavy and lifeless in a way gamay should never be. Perhaps it's a little young, given the style it's aiming for?

Lunta 2011 Malbec, Mendoza.

Reduced to a tenner on a 2 bottle deal at Majestic. Just after decanting it has that tar-like smoky edge with bold, almost brutal tannins.

Update - an hour later, the story is a similar one but it was interesting to contrast it to a Sainsbury's Cahors: the latter is rougher by far!

Paul Jaboulet Aine St-Peray 2011

We tried a bottle of this at Christmas, hoping that it's Rhone credentials might have something of the Brezeme about it. Having had the second bottle tonight it's disappointment is confirmed. Blend of Marsanne and Roussanne (as per Brezeme, if I recall correctly?) just ends up tasting bitter! I had thought this would have much more ripe fruit about it. At £12.50 (WS) this is a poor show.

Christian Bernard 2010 Fleurie Vielles vignes

Intensely perfumed. Strong violet blast initially, black cherry following later. Classy, well rounded and unmistakably crus Beaujolais. I've read lots of waffle about the 2010 vintage but this is the first of the WS offerings that live up to the hype.

Clos la Coutale, Cahors, 2010

Very rustic. Savoury attack but the acidity is too high, the effect being very little depth as it progress. Disappointing that this doesn't offer an sufficiently interesting counterpoint to the new world Malbecs we have been working through of late.