Lascar Carmenere 2013

My first taste of this grape variety. I read that '"Carménère" originates from the French word for crimson (carmin)' and was once grown as a blending grape in Bordeaux, as per modern day Petit Verdot.

I took a gamble on this primarily on its price (£5.75) and the positive comments from Wine Society members on their site.

What it does have in common with some Bordeaux is the nose: distinct pencil lead and earthy fruit. In fact, it smells a lot better than it tastes, although the pallet itself is decent enough: bramble, earth, medium body. Very respectable given the absurdly low price. 

Why it is mainly grown in Chile rather than France? Apparently it never recovered from Phylloxera in France. Chilean growers thought they were growing a variant of Merlot until 1994! It would be interesting to taste this alongside a 100% merlot to see if similarities are obvious.  

Grand Vin de Glenelly 2008

£14 (Wine Society). Heady, powerful mixture of what looks like classic bordeaux blend but is in fact 40% shiraz, 39% cabernet sauvignon, 14% petit verdot and 7% merlot.

Classy structured fruit. Hard to imagine getting anything else as fruity, savoury, cedary and satisfying at this price outside Stellenboch. I shall return for more of this. It would be good on Christmas day.

Château Puygueraud 2009 Côtes de Francs

I bought a case of this en primuer a couple of years ago and have recently tried two bottles. The first was underwhelming and it's depressing to report that the second has confirmed this to be the case. From the WS's notes below it suggests it may still be slightly young but I'm not at all sure its problem is youth: the fruit was thin and tannins were not overly aggressive (i.e. would/should soften with age). It had no real claret like charm (e.g. no cedar, leather, cigar box nose), not unpleasant in any way but utterly forgettable.

I paid £99 up front which I think rose to £146 once VAT and duty were applied so we have to judge this against £12.17 level bottles and it really does come up short. For example, for another £2.70 I could have a Raats Cabernet Franc (Stellenbosch). In fact, if I think of what £12.17 would get me in Beaujolais (close to Chateau Thivin territory) I would argue that this is a poor show. The strategy here was to avoid the better known sub regions of Bordeaux and to try and get some value in a relatively neglected are like cotes de Francs. Hopefully I'll be returning with happier news in a couple if years but I feel that's unlikely.

I read recently (http://worldofbooze.wordpress.com/2014/02/18/bordeaux-dad-wine/) that there is still great value Bordeaux out there and maybe I need to follow recommendations more. I'm not ready to give up yet but my patience is certainly running out. This is a regrettable state of affairs considering that, like writer of the 'World of Booze' post, Bordeaux was the region that got me into wine in the first place and is so tied up with memories of drinking with my Dad.

Wine Society's tasting notes: 'The lead estate of its district on the high point of the commune bought in 1946 by Georges Thienpont, whose family also owns Vieux Certan The vineyard was replanted in the 70s 55% merlot 25% cab franc 19% cab sauv and 5% malbec. One of his sons Nicolas, makes the wine. and Georges wife still lives in the property.

It is wine like this with real depth of flavour and character but from less-known regions that represent the best value in Bordeaux. The family property of Nicolas Thienpont who makes top St Emilions like Larcis Ducasse does especially well in dry years. The 2003 was exceptional but this is finer with wonderful fruit freshness and complexity. 2015 to 2021'

Christmas wines, part 3

Chateau Reynon, Premier cotes de Bordeaux, 2006.
Not a patch on it's Christmas day partner - Raats' Cabernet Franc. OK, it was 2 per bottle cheaper but no contest in terms of character. Bland and inoffensive. Rather insipid really. I was hoping to recapture some of the quality of the fabled Gand-Mouyes - also a lowly 'Superior' - but this didn't have anything to separate it from its rivals.
The worry here is that Bordeaux has forgotten how to satisfy below £15. Even allowing for inflation etc, this wasn't the case even £10 years ago.

Christmas wines, part 2

Raats, Cabernet Franc, 2008. Superb depth of flavour.  Of particular interest was whether this was measurably different from Loire reds. I think it may be but either way, it is a cracking wine. At £15 a bottle (WS) this fantastic value for money. I feel like it is the Cabernet Franc component of Claret that might be what makes it so appealing: dry, fruity and cedary in equal measure.

Dona Paulina

At £4.95 (WS) this is a fantastic example of what can be done at this end of the market. Interesting to compare it to the Navarran Sabina which is the same price. I had thought the Sabina good value but can now see it was opting for a 'safety first' approach: inoffensive but pretty thin with little discernable fruit. The Paulina has fruit in abundance but manages to stay balanced and in no way cloying.

A good reason to make further forays into Chile.

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Leon Beyer Sylvander 2009

Excessive acidity on the finish with very little discernible fruit of any kind. Is this typical for Sylvander? Poor value at 8 quid (WS).

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The Society's Beaujolais-Villages 2009

A well structured Villages which bears up well against its 7 quid price tag. This would be a good glugger.

Still, next to the ultra-bargainous Gamay it struggles.

Beaujolais-Villages, Château de Lacarelle, 2009

At £6.95 (WS) this is a big disappointment. Thin and somewhat sharp. This is the kind of stuff that gives Beaujolais a bad name.

Gamay, Vin de Pays des Gaules, Jacques Dépagneux, 2006

At £4.95 (WS) this is the best value red I have come across in years. Shades of Matt's find: Raisins Gaulois Lapierre 2009 but just under half the price. Both from 'declassified Beaujolais', suggesting this is worth more effort from the likes as Majestic etc? Real freshness to the fruit. Really lively. No hint of the two stage flavour that seems to there in the Cru's such as Thivin (no peppery/violet finish) but at this price ye cannae go wrong.

Terret, Les Terres Noirs, 2009

Outstanding value at £5.57 (WS). Plenty of interesting flavour. No hint of the excessive acidity than is often passed off as 'bone dry'. Will make a decent aperitif. Apparently 'thrives in the hot, arid conditions of France's Mediterranean coastline'. I don't recall coming across it last summer but it's likely that we drove past some vineyards of the stuff it hails from the Herault. Yet another grape variety I had never heard of until now. Would be a good one to have in bulk re book clubs ect.

Ranquet Lafleur, Carignan Vieilles Vignes, Vin de Pays de l'Hérault, 2009

Described by the WS as a 'soft, spicy and fruity red'. Agree with the last two adjectives but 'soft' is perhaps a slight stretch. Rather too heavy for me (although the current subzero temperatures make it more appealing). In no way offensive and at £5.50 it is good value. Reminiscent of the Armandieres and a similar price. would be a good one to buy in bulk for the 'give me something dark and plummy' brigade.

Coteaux du Lyonnais, Domaine des Hauts de Chasselay, 2008

2nd wine form the inaugural Wine Society order.

100% Gamay from a region that looks to be just east of Beaujolais. The overwhelming sentiment is one of incredible lightness. Pale red in colour and very faint fruit. The label has red currents on it and that can't be a coincidence. Just the faintest of edges to it that suggest Gamay. Feels almost like a rose. It comes in at £6.75 which probably rules it out for all bar al fresco drinking on a hot summers day.

The Society's White Burgundy, Macon-Villages

Much trepidation as I opened this. To some extent the wisdom of my Wine Society membership fee will stand and fall on the quality of it's own range wines. This one came in at £7.50 thus, not everyday drinking, more mid range.

Massively impressed with this. Real buttery, slightly honeyed minerality to it. Reminded me a great deal of the fabled St Véran Domaine de la Croix Senaillet which now seems to have shot up to £16 a bottle or even higher (further evidence that St Veran is no longer a fertile hunting ground for sensibly priced white burgundy, if that isn't a contradiction in terms). This is arguably the best value wine I've had all year. Will be stocking up on this without a doubt.

Anjou-Villages Brissac, La Croix de Mission, Domaine des Rochelles, 2005

One from the first Wine Society batch. Given where this wine originates from, I assumed this was going to be 100% Cabernet Franc and ordered it on this basis. On first inspection I thought it tasted different from the other Loire reds I've had but managed to convince myself I could detect some traces of what I expected - classic example of the power of suggestion and a great argument for bind tasting - and went as far as chilling it! Now I realise it is 90% Cabernet Sauvingnon and 10% Cabernet Franc I have set about convincing myself that I recognise the strains of the former! Anyway I do think there is a noteworthy point here in as much as the two grapes do seem to share some similarities in terms of their tannins. Both seem to have that very abrupt, dry finish I associate with some the the Chilean Motes Alpha pure Cabernet Savignon's I've had over the years. How did it taste? Nice enough without being hugely memorable. It had some purity and was not unbalanced but worth £11? Not sure. I will stash one away and try it again in a few years time (apparent it will keep well for another 5).