Domaine des Rabichattes, Pouilly-Fumé 2012

£12 from Majestic but only if you buy 2, £14 otherwise. At that price, it has to be judged against wines like the Domaine de la Croix Senaillet St Veran (I was about to add Yapp bros Brézème Blanc to that but see it is now £17.50 p/b!). By coincidence I opened a Touraine (Sauvignon de Touraine 2012 Domaine du Pré Baron) from Majestic a few days ago which was £9. You would struggle to say that they were both pure sauvignon blanc. For the extra £4 the Pouilly Fume has masses more going on in terms of flintiness, minerality but it's also much more balanced. No 'in your face' gooseberry here just freshness. Acidity is pleasingly restrained. In terms of fruit, I'd say a mellow version of granny smith apple is the closest thing I can think of.

If I compare this to the Chablis Premier Cru (£16, WS) then there is no contest. This is infinitely better value. The Chablis has no discernable fruit of any kind. Emperor's new clothes! I shan't be buying Chablis again any time soon. The only one I've ever had that was remarkable was a grand cru that Geir bought but i think it was at least £20.

L'Antique Pouilly Fume

Another Sainsbury's failure. £16 is poor value here for what is a bland inoffensive Sauvignon blanc. Not a patch on the last Pouilly Fume I wrote about.

Pouilly Fume

An outstanding wine. Dr Burton tells me he thinks this may have come from Oddbins, which ties in with its current lack of availability anywhere online. I'd gladly pay £15 a bottle for this. Oddly rich for a sauvignon blanc. Not what I was expecting at all. Almost Riesling-like nose, buttery colour but still very crisp on the finish. Suberb in every way. Makes you wonder if it's time to get back into Loire whites. Time was when Sancerre was the default 'posh white' for our circle.