Château Puygueraud 2009 Côtes de Francs

I bought a case of this en primuer a couple of years ago and have recently tried two bottles. The first was underwhelming and it's depressing to report that the second has confirmed this to be the case. From the WS's notes below it suggests it may still be slightly young but I'm not at all sure its problem is youth: the fruit was thin and tannins were not overly aggressive (i.e. would/should soften with age). It had no real claret like charm (e.g. no cedar, leather, cigar box nose), not unpleasant in any way but utterly forgettable.

I paid £99 up front which I think rose to £146 once VAT and duty were applied so we have to judge this against £12.17 level bottles and it really does come up short. For example, for another £2.70 I could have a Raats Cabernet Franc (Stellenbosch). In fact, if I think of what £12.17 would get me in Beaujolais (close to Chateau Thivin territory) I would argue that this is a poor show. The strategy here was to avoid the better known sub regions of Bordeaux and to try and get some value in a relatively neglected are like cotes de Francs. Hopefully I'll be returning with happier news in a couple if years but I feel that's unlikely.

I read recently (http://worldofbooze.wordpress.com/2014/02/18/bordeaux-dad-wine/) that there is still great value Bordeaux out there and maybe I need to follow recommendations more. I'm not ready to give up yet but my patience is certainly running out. This is a regrettable state of affairs considering that, like writer of the 'World of Booze' post, Bordeaux was the region that got me into wine in the first place and is so tied up with memories of drinking with my Dad.

Wine Society's tasting notes: 'The lead estate of its district on the high point of the commune bought in 1946 by Georges Thienpont, whose family also owns Vieux Certan The vineyard was replanted in the 70s 55% merlot 25% cab franc 19% cab sauv and 5% malbec. One of his sons Nicolas, makes the wine. and Georges wife still lives in the property.

It is wine like this with real depth of flavour and character but from less-known regions that represent the best value in Bordeaux. The family property of Nicolas Thienpont who makes top St Emilions like Larcis Ducasse does especially well in dry years. The 2003 was exceptional but this is finer with wonderful fruit freshness and complexity. 2015 to 2021'

Dad's 69th birthday wines

Both were 'birthday' wines consumed with Dad on his 69th during what it likely to be my last visit to Station House. The claret was one from his cellar. The Cab. Sav is one that Daniel and I bought him in 1995 ('love from The Burkes' I'm told the wrapping said. The latter had help up very well despite year of vertical storage in the bibby (with resultant dessicated cork). Still instantly recognisable as a new world ball buster but the years had mellow it considerably to take on a pleasing rustic edge. The claret was very poor given the region (St George St Emillion) and the year (2000). It had no recognisably Claret like strengths and while not unpleasant it was a disappointment. Sadly there are about 8 left which I doubt will prove good value.

The attritional loss of faith in Claret continued a week later with the consumption of the birthday wine I bought him: La Croix de Beaucaillou 2006 St-Julien. At £30 p/b this was criminally unremarkable. I have definitely enjoyed wines (with Geir) from this stable previously. Perhaps that was the producer's first wine but I doubt it as that now seems to come in at about £80 p/b. It is a long time indeed since I have had a pleasurable Claret experience which as also felt like reasonable value. One exception might the WS's Château Canada (£7.50) but they seem to be increasingly thin on the ground. Perhaps my tastes have changed rather than the wines? Possible, but unlikely, given that the bottles I've enjoyed recently from South Africa are those that remind me of Clarets past.

Southwold wines

The L'Hermitage de Chasse Spleen was the last of the case I think. It may well be my first serious attempt to by good claret by the case. For the first few years it was stored in atrocious conditions (upright, in wildly fluctuating temperatures). At least one bottle had it's cork protruding which didn't bode well. I recall many of these bottles being somewhat thin but this was a cracker. Very smooth, harmonious. Lacking the power of a high end claret but still enough fruit to do it justice.

The Julienas (Adnams) was incredibly good value at £10. Really juicy, light and refreshing.

The Sesti was the reason why I first came into contact with Adnams. It was part of a mixed case put together by The Bunch and released by The Telegraph. Earthy, deep savoury edge to it. I know nothing of the grape or the region. Still can't decide how I feel about Italian reds. All too often they seem rather ragged/rustic yet the price tags don't reflect this.

I was too far gone to recall anything useful about the Rioja. Pity, I think MH paid a fair whack for it.

Chateau Dubrand & Domaine du Point du Jour's Cuvée Vieilles Vignes

A pulsating North London derby last night: Spurs fist win for 11 years! What would it have looked like in 3D I wonder - Neil must be jumping...

Two reds were also sampled.

1st up was a 2006 Chateau Dubrand. I bought three of these in the final, fateful order from wineandco. One which was handled with such spectacular ineptness that I vowed to avoid them evermore.

The wine is still young and I think it may be possible to attribute it's somewhat disappointing taste to this feature. I say that because, whilst there was some initial fruit (I'm not able to say what exactly), the experience was dominated by rather strong rough tannins. I read that these should soften with age and that softening process will change the overall flavour into something more harmonious. However, given that I couldn't detect much identifiable fruit (pleasant or otherwise) at this stage, I'm not convinced it will improve a great deal. It may end up like some the the aged Chateau Beaumont's I've drank with my Old Man - smooth but characterless with little discernible fruit. At £9 p/bottle it doesn't disgrace itself. It will be interesting to come back to it in a couple of years (I now have two remaining).

2nd up was an Fleurie of notable distinction: Domaine du Point du Jour's Cuvée Vieilles Vignes (2006) which came in at £12.61 per bottle. Massive depth of flavour here. Could this be the Vieilles Vignes effect at last? Violets and raspberries up front with a oaky, complex finish. Very high quality in every sense and must be considered a real contender to the straight Thivin - certianly as good in terms of value. This a a world away from the Deuboeuf Fleuuries I've had this year, far far more harmonious and interesting. I think the Duboeuf was about £9 a bottle (or maybe £8 on a multibuy from Majestic?) so it it worth the extra £3-4? I would say so.

Beaujolais, Haut-Medoc and Sicilly

Three more to report on. First up is a staple in the form of George Deboeuf's Fleurie. It was considered good value at around £8 (majestic) but it's often closer to a tenner which take it perilously close to Chatuea Thivin country (see earlier post). For me it is not in the same league for depth of flavour. Still, it's a moderately good Beaujolais which could be worse. I just don't feel the value is there anymore. Funny how a better wine changes the scale bu which we view others.

Second up is one from a case of 12 I bought not long after moving into this house:


The motivation being the Heron connection with the Chateau's first wine and curiosity over whether second wines would bear any resemblance to fist. It has to be said they were stored upright for at least a couple of years and even when flat the conditions were pretty poor, so it's likely this wine hasn't had a fair chance. When I opened it it had plenty of forest fruit on the nose and seemed promising. On the palette there was 'nothing wrong' with the taste - no rough edges ect - but it didn't have any complexity to speak of and you couldn't say it was in any way memorable. Smooth but slightly thin? I think I paid £10 a bottle for these in 2002 so it may well be more pricey now. I see from The Wine Dr's pages that there is another second (third?) wine called L'Oratoire de Chasse Spleen.

Finally comes a wine I bought out of fondness for Sicilly. I honestly thought it was a red but it was only when I got it home and looked at it through the light that I realised it was white! I can't say I've ever done that before.....yet to try it but I read that the grape (grillo) is usually used in Marsala production!

Festive wines

Three wines to report on that I enjoyed over the festive season.














1st up was a Chinon: Charles Jouget's Les Varennes du Grand Clos. It was 100% Cabernet Franc. Had a pleasant stawbery-ish nose with meaty, dry finish. The label advised serving lightly chilled and the combination of the taste and the temperature reminded me a of some of the more weighty of the cru Beaujolais. It was a really interesting wine. New flavours and a new area to think about. However, it £15 a go (Majestic) is it worth it? Not sure.

Keeping with the cru Beaujolais theme, the send wine of note was Chatuea Thivin from Cote de Brouilly. This has an outstandingly fruity nose and initial flavour: violets, raspberries galore. The finish shows a real weightiness that I have not experienced from a Beaujolais before. I could drink this wine all day. A real find. At £11 a go this is a contended for the best wine I've had all year.

Last and certainly the most memorable was a 2000 Chateau Haut-Bages Averous from Pulliac. Apparently it is the second wine of Lynch-Bages which commands absurdly high prices. After reading about wines from this part of the Medoc, it seems that St Jullien (and to a lesser extent neighbouring Pulliac) produces wines in a style favoured by the UK market's desire for a certain type of claret that tastes 'as claret should'. This style is further described as having 'pencil shaving, cedary nose with deep complex fruit'. If so then I guess I'm in line with this particular UK preference. It was an outstanding wine and one I shall not forget in a hurry. I won't be able to do it justice here but it cretainly had the aforementioned characteristics in abundance. I think Beccy bought me this and I suspect it cost the best part of £40. It can be bought in bond at £15/bottle (wineandco.com) which would probably work out at more like £20 after VAT, duty and delivery. Still worth it for me? I think it probably is. Still, January is no the time for major outlays. Perhaps Cleon could be persuaded to go halves on a case......