Interesting comment from OW Loeb:
As you have probably gathered from the resounding silence from OWL, we did not – again – go out to Bordeaux for the annual primeur junket, which took place last week. In fact I was in South Africa with a fine body of men - the wine committee of a London Club; much more productive and much more fun!
The Bordeaux wine market has completely lost its way in recent years, and needs to be 're-set', to get back to basics, and re-connect with its traditional clientèle. My first primeur vintage was 1978. In those days only good vintages were sold, or, more importantly bought, 'en primeur'. The prices were low because the château owners were getting quick cash (how sensible) and us merchants were able to make a decent margin (even more sensible) for all the work involved (there is much more work than with a straight forward sale from stock).
Now they try to sell totally indifferent vintages (such as 2013) for absurd prices, in the full knowledge that – in all probability – their wines will still be available at the same price (or cheaper….) in five, six, eight years' time; and us poor merchants make a pathetically small turn to boot.
Why do we bother, I hear you cry! Well, we don't. We will return to the Bordeaux primeur market when the next vintage demands that we taste it, and we will hope against hope that, despite the wines being worth tasting, the prices will be sensible (eternal optimist, me).
There you have it, rant of the day. We will leave you in peace now, and wish you a very happy Easter,
Chris
Chris Davey |
£6.50 (WS), 11.5%
From the Peloponnese area (I read that this has sub-regions called Martinis, Nemea and Patras but I don't know how Achaia fits into this, could well be this operation near Patras: http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Achaia_Clauss).
Light, little discernable fruit initially (is this typical for a 'predominantly muscat' blend?) but some refreshing salinity later on. Very easy drinking and pleasingly low alcohol.
£6.50 (Wine Society).
The label suggests syrah and perhaps cabernet savignon? Yet the WS spiel claims mostly syrah with some mourvedre. In any case, the nose is highly savoury - dried black olives is the closest I can get.
Palette is velvety, slightly herby. This seems to be a common feature of the syrah/shiraz I've been exploring recently and it has much to recommend it. Not a million miles from the more moderate malbecs?
Interesting that the spiel says that it's made with 'a nod to the southern Rhone'. I can't detect any Rhone like flavour (no bad thing) but you feel that they need to write that to get people interested. In 20 years time perhaps they won't need any cross dressing and 'Languedoc style' will have a cachet of its own?
This is produced in Nezignan-L'Eveque which we must have driven passed many times on our way to Agde, Valras-Plage etc: it seems to be equidistant from Tourbes and Pezenas.
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Another from 34 wines: £10. Very deep yellow colour. Much livelier and mineral than the 14% ABV and Roussanne/ Marsanne blend blend would suggest. I had nothing approaching this whilst in Faugères last summer. I will be going back for more.
Sent in error by the Wine Society this had as lower threshold as possible for enjoyment.
A grape and region about which I know nothing, Berry Bros tells us the following:
Nebbiolo d’Alba, a historical Italian wine DOC, created in 1970, is synonymous with the crunchier Nebbiolo wines of the Roero region north of the river Tanaro.
This DOC can be applied to all wines lying outside the Langhe (Barolo & Barbaresco) region, of which the sandier Roero makes up the largest part.
'Nebbiolo d’Alba DOC has to be 100% Nebbiolo and must be aged for 12 months prior to release. Notwithstanding the DOC restrictions, during the 1990s several prominent Barolo and Barbaresco wine producers invested in Roero Nebbiolo vineyards such as Valmaggiore.
It is not uncommon for Langhe producers to supplement their Langhe Nebbiolo fruit with that bought from the Roero'
I can only be bothered to write about it because it when I opened it last night it was actively unpleasant: highly peppery, dry to the point of sandpaper and tart. The difference 24 hours has made is staggering. I accidentally left it open in the fridge overnight. And it now resembles a good Crus Beaujolais.
£8.50 from 34 Wines (run by John - Hannah's Dad). Very little nose but really balanced fruit. Has black cherry and a stone-like (slatey) edge to the finish. Is this minerality? Really interesting and satisfying wine.
The same blend as the wine we bought from that area whilst passing through in 2010.
At the time I thought it was an idiosyncratic blend specific to that producer. It seems that it's actually a feature of the appellation.
Very light colour and vibrant fruit. I'm guessing that's the Pinot.
A light refreshing wine which I would return to if the acidity was a fraction lower. Would be great for summer lunch outside.
Very savoury, almost meaty nose on decanting. On the palette, there is that familiar burst of lush fruit. Strange mixture of being thirst quenching yet simultaneously earthy. Two left. It's a pity I won't be going anywhere near Faugeres anytime soon.
£12 from Majestic but only if you buy 2, £14 otherwise. At that price, it has to be judged against wines like the Domaine de la Croix Senaillet St Veran (I was about to add Yapp bros Brézème Blanc to that but see it is now £17.50 p/b!). By coincidence I opened a Touraine (Sauvignon de Touraine 2012 Domaine du Pré Baron) from Majestic a few days ago which was £9. You would struggle to say that they were both pure sauvignon blanc. For the extra £4 the Pouilly Fume has masses more going on in terms of flintiness, minerality but it's also much more balanced. No 'in your face' gooseberry here just freshness. Acidity is pleasingly restrained. In terms of fruit, I'd say a mellow version of granny smith apple is the closest thing I can think of.
Bought at the Caveau de Schist just outside Laurens. In truth, it is unremarkable. It has that cooked pear edge I associate with many a Languedoc white (Picopoul de Pinet being a notable exception): not a flavour I enjoy.
I'm any case, I Had all but forgotten I'd brought this back with me until I saw it's red counterpart on the list at La Grillade for 'only' £22. It was fantastic: just the right mixture of earthy fruit to go with the Chateaubriand.
I see today's mailing from the Wine Society has a big feature on The Languedoc but there's no mention of Faugères...
