Château Puygueraud 2009 Côtes de Francs

I bought a case of this en primuer a couple of years ago and have recently tried two bottles. The first was underwhelming and it's depressing to report that the second has confirmed this to be the case. From the WS's notes below it suggests it may still be slightly young but I'm not at all sure its problem is youth: the fruit was thin and tannins were not overly aggressive (i.e. would/should soften with age). It had no real claret like charm (e.g. no cedar, leather, cigar box nose), not unpleasant in any way but utterly forgettable.

I paid £99 up front which I think rose to £146 once VAT and duty were applied so we have to judge this against £12.17 level bottles and it really does come up short. For example, for another £2.70 I could have a Raats Cabernet Franc (Stellenbosch). In fact, if I think of what £12.17 would get me in Beaujolais (close to Chateau Thivin territory) I would argue that this is a poor show. The strategy here was to avoid the better known sub regions of Bordeaux and to try and get some value in a relatively neglected are like cotes de Francs. Hopefully I'll be returning with happier news in a couple if years but I feel that's unlikely.

I read recently (http://worldofbooze.wordpress.com/2014/02/18/bordeaux-dad-wine/) that there is still great value Bordeaux out there and maybe I need to follow recommendations more. I'm not ready to give up yet but my patience is certainly running out. This is a regrettable state of affairs considering that, like writer of the 'World of Booze' post, Bordeaux was the region that got me into wine in the first place and is so tied up with memories of drinking with my Dad.

Wine Society's tasting notes: 'The lead estate of its district on the high point of the commune bought in 1946 by Georges Thienpont, whose family also owns Vieux Certan The vineyard was replanted in the 70s 55% merlot 25% cab franc 19% cab sauv and 5% malbec. One of his sons Nicolas, makes the wine. and Georges wife still lives in the property.

It is wine like this with real depth of flavour and character but from less-known regions that represent the best value in Bordeaux. The family property of Nicolas Thienpont who makes top St Emilions like Larcis Ducasse does especially well in dry years. The 2003 was exceptional but this is finer with wonderful fruit freshness and complexity. 2015 to 2021'

Mas Sinen Corster 2007 Priorat (Celler Burgos Porta)

Incredibly powerful. Heady, almost fortified edge to it. Felt every inch of the 15% ABV. Dense, spicy fruit. Amazing to think how different Priorat wines taste to Roja (not that they should be similar but I forget just how diverse Spain's wines can be). Opening this was a bit poignant - the last link we have to a great day in the mountains of Priorat.  I've pasted in some info I found from an American wine merchants site. Burgo's-Porta's wines do not appear to be available in the UK but overseas prices suggest this would come in at around £25. As always, I wish we had brought more back with us!

The Estate
Mas Sinen is located in the village of Poboleda, in the province of Tarragona. The winery dates back to the 19th century and has been in the family for a few generations. Mas Sinen is a beautiful estate made of stone and surrounded by the family vineyards. Today, Salvador Burgos and his wife Conxita Porta, together with their two daughters, continue the family tradition using the most modern technologies to produce high quality wine from the Priorat Denomination of Origin.
The VineyardsThe vineyards measure 15 hectares total. They are planted in terraces, in the slopes of the "Mas Sinen" mountain and are situated 300-500 meters above sea level, cultivated under organic methods. The vines are 5 to 50 years old planted to local schist called llicorella (decomposing soil type) which is typical of the Priorat region.

The Vineyards
The vineyards measure 15 hectares total. They are planted in terraces, in the slopes of the "Mas Sinen" mountain and are situated 300-500 meters above sea level, cultivated under organic methods. The vines are 5 to 50 years old planted to local schist called llicorella (decomposing soil type) which is typical of the Priorat region.

2007 Mas Sinen, Coster, Reserve, Priorat 6/750mlMade from 50% Garnacha, 50% Carinena. 50 year old vines. Aged for 12 months in oak. Light filtration. Strong and flavorful.

"The 2007 Coster Reserve is 50% Garnacha and 50% Carinena sourced from 50-year-old vines aged for 12 months in oak. Aromas of slate/mineral, espresso, black truffle, licorice, black cherry, and plum lead to a dense, packed, powerful, impressively constituted Priorat that will add complexity with another 4-5 years of cellaring. Drink this pleasure-bent powerhouse from 2014 to 2027."

- Wine Advocate (April 2010), 94 pts

2009 Mas Sinen, Petit Mas Sinen, Priorat 6/750mlMade from 45% Garnacha, 30% Cariñena (also called Samsó), 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Syrah, 5% Merlot. Aged in oak barrels for 6 months. Maceration for 21 days. ML in stainless steel tanks. Clarification with white egg and soft filtration. The wine shows great spice and leather components, some minerality and a lot of ripe red fruits aromas as well. This wine is certified organic. National Retail Price: $38.95 / bottle

Domaine du Meteore

Another from 34 wines: £10. Very deep yellow colour. Much livelier and mineral than the 14% ABV and Roussanne/ Marsanne blend blend would suggest. I had nothing approaching this whilst in Faugères last summer. I will be going back for more.

Pickers error

Sent in error by the Wine Society this had as lower threshold as possible for enjoyment.

A grape and region about which I know nothing, Berry Bros tells us the following:

Nebbiolo d’Alba, a historical Italian wine DOC, created in 1970, is synonymous with the crunchier Nebbiolo wines of the Roero region north of the river Tanaro.

This DOC can be applied to all wines lying outside the Langhe (Barolo & Barbaresco) region, of which the sandier Roero makes up the largest part.

'Nebbiolo d’Alba DOC has to be 100% Nebbiolo  and must be aged for 12 months prior to release. Notwithstanding the DOC restrictions, during the 1990s several prominent Barolo and Barbaresco wine producers invested in Roero Nebbiolo vineyards such as Valmaggiore.

It is not uncommon for Langhe producers to supplement their Langhe Nebbiolo fruit with that bought from the Roero'

I can only be bothered to write about it because it when  I opened it last night it was actively unpleasant: highly peppery, dry to the point of sandpaper and tart. The difference 24 hours has made is staggering. I accidentally left it open in the fridge overnight. And it now resembles a good Crus Beaujolais.

Domaine de Martinolles Pinot Noir 2011

£8.50 from 34 Wines (run by John - Hannah's Dad). Very little nose but really balanced fruit. Has black cherry and a stone-like (slatey) edge to the finish. Is this minerality? Really interesting and satisfying wine.

Vermeil du cres 2012

Brought back from the Vignerons de Serignan Cave Cooperative.

I bought two bottles at €8 each from a Dutch expat employe of the Cooperative. The disappointment of the first bottle led me to think that both had been ruined by being left to the mercy of the Languedoc heat whilst entombed in our roof box. This second bottle makes me think otherwise. Despite the cork pushing out the top of the foil, this is really quite agreeable. There is spice and cream initially which gives way to vibrant (but not brash) fruit. Not a million miles away from a Faugères style. One imagines the grape varieties will be similar (carignan, grenache?) but surely the terroir must be very different? This was so close to the sea with not a whiff of schist in sight.

St Pourcain, Bell Tower Pinot Noir-Gamay 2012

The same blend as the wine we bought from that area whilst passing through in 2010.

At the time I thought it was an idiosyncratic blend specific to that producer. It seems that it's actually a feature of the appellation.

Very light colour and vibrant fruit. I'm guessing that's the Pinot.

A light refreshing wine which I would return to if the acidity was a fraction lower. Would be great for summer lunch outside.

Chateau de la Liquiere, Faugères 2011

Very savoury, almost meaty nose on decanting. On the palette, there is that familiar burst of lush fruit. Strange mixture of being thirst quenching yet simultaneously earthy. Two left. It's a pity I won't be going anywhere near Faugeres anytime soon.  

Domaine des Rabichattes, Pouilly-Fumé 2012

£12 from Majestic but only if you buy 2, £14 otherwise. At that price, it has to be judged against wines like the Domaine de la Croix Senaillet St Veran (I was about to add Yapp bros Brézème Blanc to that but see it is now £17.50 p/b!). By coincidence I opened a Touraine (Sauvignon de Touraine 2012 Domaine du Pré Baron) from Majestic a few days ago which was £9. You would struggle to say that they were both pure sauvignon blanc. For the extra £4 the Pouilly Fume has masses more going on in terms of flintiness, minerality but it's also much more balanced. No 'in your face' gooseberry here just freshness. Acidity is pleasingly restrained. In terms of fruit, I'd say a mellow version of granny smith apple is the closest thing I can think of.

If I compare this to the Chablis Premier Cru (£16, WS) then there is no contest. This is infinitely better value. The Chablis has no discernable fruit of any kind. Emperor's new clothes! I shan't be buying Chablis again any time soon. The only one I've ever had that was remarkable was a grand cru that Geir bought but i think it was at least £20.

Domaine du Florence, Fleurie 2009

Acquired a case of this in 2010 and wasn't overly impressed with it. Seemed to be rough edged and lacking any cru Beaujolais qualities like violets, black cherry etc.

With 3 bottles left I read a Jancis Robinson piece in the FT about 2009 Beaujolais being unusually tannic. I duly stashed the rest away.

Does it taste any different in 2013? It may well be the emperor's new clothes but it does seem to have softened. The fruit is still very faint. Slight creaminess to the finish. Acidity is there, too much really.

Cuvee Valentin Duc

Bought at the Caveau de Schist just outside Laurens. In truth, it is unremarkable. It has that cooked pear edge I associate with many a Languedoc white (Picopoul de Pinet being a notable exception): not a flavour I enjoy.

I'm any case, I Had all but forgotten I'd brought this back with me until I saw it's red counterpart on the list at La Grillade for 'only' £22. It was fantastic: just the right mixture of earthy fruit to go with the Chateaubriand.

I see today's mailing from the Wine Society has a big feature on The Languedoc but there's no mention of Faugères...

Domaine de l' Arjolle

A claret-like blend (Cabernet Saugivnon-Merlot) from near Pezenas (Cotes de Thongue - there are seemegly no restrictions on grapes variety here?). This certainly had more of a Bordeaux/Stellenbosch feel to it than a classic Languedoc. At £7.50 (WS) it invites comparison with Chateau Canada. It has a decent amount of cedar-mess and leathery-ness and some accessible fruit up front. It seems good value to me. Could this, together with areas like Stellenbosch, be arguments against the influence terroir? Perhaps you can only scale the heights of the claret experience in Bordeaux but others certainly seem to be going well in the foothills.....

Domaine du Cros, Marcillac 2012

Excellent impersonation of a good quality beaujolais village. Raspberry up front with a pleasingly dry peppy finish. Light yet interesting. Yet another appalation ('Appalation Marcillac Protogee') I had never heard of and one which perhaps only the Wine Society (£8) or perhaps Yapp bros would have the courage to stock.

Frederic Mabileau Les Rouilleres St Nicolas de Bourgeuil 2009

Superb example of Loire cabernet franc can be both fresh and weighty at the same time. Lovely pencil lead, cedary finish to it. I've had this in storage for about 18 months and now see that I paid about £13 for it at Waitrose. I'd say it represents reasonable value. What other supermarket would have the confidence and imagination to stock something like this?

Jordan, 2010 Stellenbosch

Parkin or ginger on the nose? An earthy, satisfying offering. Held up very well after being opened 4 days ago. Dry, leathery fruit. £8 (majestic) represents good value and further proof that this region is performing for better than bordeaux using the same varietal blends at much cheaper prices.

Chateau des Jaques, Moulin-A-Vent 2010

I keep reading about how higher-end cru beaujolais producers are beginning to produce gamay in a 'burgundian' style. I suspect this is one of them. Certainly, the price tag (£12.50, Majestic) is edging into Burgundy country. The wine is a failure for me. It is heavy and lifeless in a way gamay should never be. Perhaps it's a little young, given the style it's aiming for?

Lunta 2011 Malbec, Mendoza.

Reduced to a tenner on a 2 bottle deal at Majestic. Just after decanting it has that tar-like smoky edge with bold, almost brutal tannins.

Update - an hour later, the story is a similar one but it was interesting to contrast it to a Sainsbury's Cahors: the latter is rougher by far!

Paul Jaboulet Aine St-Peray 2011

We tried a bottle of this at Christmas, hoping that it's Rhone credentials might have something of the Brezeme about it. Having had the second bottle tonight it's disappointment is confirmed. Blend of Marsanne and Roussanne (as per Brezeme, if I recall correctly?) just ends up tasting bitter! I had thought this would have much more ripe fruit about it. At £12.50 (WS) this is a poor show.

Christian Bernard 2010 Fleurie Vielles vignes

Intensely perfumed. Strong violet blast initially, black cherry following later. Classy, well rounded and unmistakably crus Beaujolais. I've read lots of waffle about the 2010 vintage but this is the first of the WS offerings that live up to the hype.

Clos la Coutale, Cahors, 2010

Very rustic. Savoury attack but the acidity is too high, the effect being very little depth as it progress. Disappointing that this doesn't offer an sufficiently interesting counterpoint to the new world Malbecs we have been working through of late.